Dave Fry's Everest Adventure

This is the place to read about Dave's travels, adventures, and trek along the base of Mt. Everest in Nepal during the month of October 2005.

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Name: Dave Fry
Location: Trekking in Nepal

Friday, September 30, 2005

Pre-trip preparations

As we prepare for our trip, John and I have a dilemma. (Jim, our third hiking partner has dropped out of the trip, offering a lame excuse about a son’s wedding or some other trivial matter. Whatever.) Our guide has sent a list of equipment we will need on the trek. John and I both have extensive winter wilderness experience; I’ve guided numerous trips through backcountry myself. We feel that our guide’s equipment is rather out-dated, and that we have several articles that are newer, up-graded variations items. However, the guide’s list is very detailed and brand-specific. Should we purchase these recommendations and leave our stuff at home? Or should we trust our own experience and go with the equipment we already have. We would not make a very good first impression, conveying that we Georgia boys feel we know more about trekking Everest than our experienced guide!
Then I remember why John is on this trip—we’ll take our own equipment and I can explain to the guide that this was totally John’s decision!

I am certain I didn’t tell you this, because I’ve never told anybody. Each fall, when Jim, John, and I hike in the backcountry out west, on the last day of our hike, we determine our destination for the next year. On the slopes of Mount Ranier, we talked about the Teton Crest Trail in Utah; the next year, descending the Tetons, we decided to try exploring the Zion Canyons. But never, on any of those trips, during any of those discussions, did I whisper a single word about Mount Everest. Trekking Everest was the ultimate dream, but a dream far too out of reach for me to play the fool by suggesting it. So I am certain that I never said a word out loud to anybody.
Then, celebrating the church’s anniversary, you--you dreamers of dreams--gave us a trip to anywhere in the world; Debbie, who knows my heart and nurtures my soul, said “You, Dave, go first to Everest; then later we will go somewhere together.” My hiking partners, Jim and John, both said, “Of course, we’ll go with you.” Thus next Thursday, we board Korean Airlines flight #36 bound for Seoul, Bangkok, Kathmandu, and the foothills of Everest.
During a portion of the trek, we will hand our load to a sherpa and team of yaks, leaving us with only the tasks of climbing and breathing. During the entire trip, Debbie will pick up the load of our household, shuttling the kids, adjusting her own work schedule—all of these responsibilities without the advantage of my wise counsel! The staff of the church will pick up my part of the work here, sharing all those added responsibilities without the disadvantage of my being in the way! And you will continue to Join the Adventure that we celebrated last Sunday evening. Keep up the good work. Don’t make me come back here and preach my “I’m not going to beg for money” sermon again!

Itinerary

(Subject to Change)

Oct 6     Leave Atlanta

Oct. 7     Arrive Bangkok via Seoul, Korea
Killer marathon, with an 11:45 pm ETA into Bankok and a morning departure for Kathmandu.

Oct 8     Katmandu, Nepal
A city forbidden to outsiders until sixty years ago, it is home to a people who are kind, gentle and possess a generosity of spirit seldom found elsewhere.  Teeming with life, the Thamel area of the city is “home” for mountain climbers of all nations as they prepare for ascents to “The Roof of the World.”

Oct. 9     Katmandu, Nepal
We’ll visit the “Monkey Temple” a major Buddhist temple located at the top of a significant climb which will offer beautiful vistas of the Kathmandu Valley.

Oct. 10     Kitapur, Nepal
Historically significant and rarely visited by tourists, Kitapur is a high fortress on the edge of Kathmandu Valley.  Then to Chobar Gourge, where the mythical lake was drained at the creation of the world.  This will offer our first glimpse of the High Himalaya.     

Oct. 11     Katmandu, Nepal
A free day to continue to acclimate to the altitude.

Oct. 12     Katmandu, Nepal
Today we meet with our trekking and climbing staff for briefing and instruction.

Oct. 13     Lukla, Nepal (Altitude 9,285 ft.)
Our two hour flight from Kathmandu follows the great white wall of the highest mountains in the world—the Himalayas!  If we find we can breathe the thin air that passes for oxygen at that altitude, we’ll visit Sir Edmond Hillary’s school.

Oct. 14     Trek
Today we meet our sirdar, sherpas, porters, cooks and kitchen boys—the support group for our trek.  Several of them have successfully climbed the highest peaks in the world.  We begin our trek to Solu Khumbu region, home of the Sherpa people.   We will head north to join the main trail at Choplung and then along the Dudh Koshi Valley to Ghat, following the trail up the valley to Monzo (altitude 9,380 ft).

Oct. 15     Namche Bazaar (11,287)
After breakfast, we enter Sagarmatha National Park.  We’ll cross a suspension bridge at the village of Josalle and walk alongside the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi confluence.  A lone, steep ascent brings us to the Sherpa village of Namche Bazaar.  (altitude 11,287 ft.)  Surrounded by a wall of peaks, one of which is the sacred mountain Khumbila (18,901 ft).  Namche Bazaar is the last outpost.  Trade goods (everything from salt to Chinese silk saddle blankets) are brought through snow-chocked passes by Tibetan traders leading yaks.  There is a bar that must have been the inspiration for a scene from “The Raiders of the Lost Ark”:  Tibetan with hair to their waists, Sherpas back from the peaks; climbers from all over the world clad in high thch gear;  all shooting pool or listening to the Rolling Stones!
     
Oct. 16     Namche Bazaar  
A free day to practice breathing.  Our loads will be transferred to Yaks, the short, hairy, bison-like beasts of burden capable of enduring the high altitude and the cold.

Oct. 17     Trek
We will follow the Thyangboche Trail to Syanguasa, then take the Gokyo Trail to the crest of the ridge. (alt. 13,097 ft.).  Then we’ll descend steeply toward the Dudh Koshi.  We’ll make camp at Dole (alt. 13,400 ft.)

Oct. 18     Trek
Continue up the Gokyo valley, passing Yak huts at Bhabarma.  Camp at Macherma (alt. 14,000)

Oct. 19     Trek
Our route passes brilliant turquoise lakes below mammoth white mountains, where we will come to the end of the pass.  We are surrounded by a wall of huge, glaciated peaks:  Cho Oyu (26,864 ft.)  Pumori (23,507) and Lhotse.  (27, 890)  Above them all rises mighty ount everest.  In Tibetan:  Chomolonga, “Goddess of the Wind” ; and in Nepali:  Sagarmatha:  “Churning Stick of the Ocean of Existance”.  At 29,035 ft., Everest is the highest mountain in the world.  We’ll camp at a mere 15,720 ft.

Oct. 20     Gokyo
A free day to relax, recover and wonder why we decided to come to this oxygen-starved place!

Oct 21     Climb!
Embarking long before dawn, we  begin our ascent of Gokyo Ri  (17,575).  This summit affords one of the best views of Mount Everest.  Return to camp at Gokyo.

Oct. 22     Trek to Dole

Oct 23     Trek to Namche Bazaar

Oct 24     Trek to Camp Phakding (8,564)

Oct. 25     Long trek to Lukla

Oct. 26     Fly to Katmandu

Oct 27     Free day in Katmandu

Oct 28     Fly to Bangkok

Oct. 29     Fly home to Atlanta